"I really wanted to explore a sense of tailoring, sophistication and rigour once more," says Mark Weston, Creative Director of dunhill. “That idea of a masculine uniform, its world of functionality as well as military ceremony, the roots of our British tailoring traditions are so much part of these very things. I also wanted to look at how subversive and rebellious it actually feels for a younger man to embrace a strict suit as well as a shirt and tie now, to adopt an almost conventional uniform and make it so unconventional. It's the power and rigour of clothing that makes you feel something and behave in a certain way. This collection is a return to a certain discipline and tradition, yet there is always a simultaneous sense of British subversion within what we do and in the person who might wear it."
From City Boy to Soldier, the utilitarian rigour, extravagance and power of a finely tailored uniform is fully embraced by dunhill this season. At the same time, there is a gentle subversion of such stereotypes, with the codes and specificities of such masculine dressing transposed and transformed to take on other meanings in this season's silhouettes.
Explore the Looks from the Autumn Winter 2022 Uniform Collection by dunhill – Men’s Fashion
A summation of new era dunhill signature styles and materials occurs in the collection, often applied to a new kind of conservatism with a hint of subversion. Amongst them, the Wrapped Jacket and Split Hem Trousers take on a more formal, rigorous tone in complete suiting looks with high breaks and strong shoulders. Moire appears once more, this time as a nylon technical fabric in the green Compendium Coat, its multi-functional elegance becoming a counter point over strict tailoring. Traditional camel in wool cashmere is bonded with neoprene to create a Cocoon architecture for a not so conventional overcoat. Coated paper cotton is utilised for an oversized raincoat to be layered over a leather suit jacket. These established styles are joined by different codes more military in origin, such as livery buttons and regimental ties, a light tailoring mohair spin on a military uniform shirt and a palette of armed forces colours. A certain austerity and layered severity is embraced by all.
Ideas of tradition, rigour and continuity run throughout the collection, together with a certain iconoclasm; the disruption is in the person wearing the clothing, rather than the other way around. Here severity becomes subversion, a very British dichotomy where symbols of class and creativity are brought to clash with a sense of reality.